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漫谈登山、探险活动中的救援行动
SPORTS.SOHU.COM  2004年8月9日20:40  网友
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  最近翻译的、看到的关于救援的文章不少。不由得想,不知道国外登山队、极地探险队等队伍遇到危险时,进行的救援活动是怎么一种情况?

  例如近日发生的几次救援行动:

  1、像这次干城章嘉峰救援:尼泊尔方面出动数次直升机在干城章嘉峰成功营救Carlos Pauner和Silvio Mondinelli;

  https://www.lvye.org/bbs/showthre ... expanded&sb=5&part=

  2、北极成功救援:营救在北极被困长达八天的Pen Hadow,他是第一个Solo完成从加拿大穿越北极的人;

  https://www.lvye.org/bbs/showthre ...expanded&sb=5&part=

  3、珠峰救援Karma夏尔巴:阿尔卑斯2003国际登山珠穆朗玛峰攀登队Luis Benitez、 Willie 和Damian Benegas以及数位夏尔巴等人,从二号营地救援生命垂危的Karma夏尔巴(后来不幸死亡)下撤。Luis Benitez对于自己是否参加救援行动,从而失去登顶机会,他作了一番思想斗争,最后决定参与救援。稍候我将翻译出全文,很感人的一篇文章。

  4、珠峰北侧救援摔断腿的英国登山者,中国方面,西藏登山学校的尼玛校长和他的学生,以及中国搜狐登山队的张梁先生,参与了这次救援;

  5、更早的,1996年珠峰大山难,一位空军少校自愿驾驶直升机上到高海拔,成功救下严重受伤的贝克;

  6、……

  我想:

  * 救援体系是怎样的?或者说,成熟的救援体系应该是怎样的?如何建立?

  * 中国有比较成熟的救援体系么?我想答案是否定的。以前的玉珠峰救援、去年的大雪塘救援等,都是由权威人士在全国范围内呼叫志愿者,志愿者不乏业余登山爱好者、民间人士。官方的救援,希夏邦马山难救援应该算是,应该还有很多。

  * 救援费用支付?由施救方、施救国(组织)核算报价,然后被救人(被救队伍、被救人所在的机构)支付?

  * 就近负责?山峰所在国负责?山峰所在国应该负责么?

  * 向山峰所属登协、相关管理部门登记(缴费)应该是必须要做的。万一不幸需要救援,首先向谁求援?把求援信息发给谁?先发给队友,如果大本营有人的话再发信息给大本营,然后呢?登协?山下小村庄?全国各地能联系得上的山友朋友?

  * 求援信息发送出去以后,谁来组织救援?官方的?民间的?志愿的?我想最好的方法应该是官方

  有一套行之有效的、高效率的救援程序吧,这又可能没钱去组织和实施,也不应该由国家来承担这笔救援费用。但如果是要求被救队员自己支付救援全部费用呢?像下面这个前几天北极成功救援Pen Hadow的例子,Pen Hadow就自己支付了救援费用。

  救人一命与登顶的取舍似乎没什么好说的,见死不救的人应该是少数,当然,这可能也是登山者自己的事。

  撇开同一支队伍内、不同队伍之间或者其他方式自愿提供的免费救援不说,可以肯定是,天下没有免费的午餐。

  来讲讲Pen Hadow这位牛人的事情吧。

  有一个很有趣的现象,从下面这件事情可以看出,对于救援行动也有不同的看法。

  前几天成功实施的“北极救援”来说,Pen Hadow在北极冰天雪地里被困长达八天之久,他是第一个Solo完成从加拿大穿越北极的人,牛吧?伟大吧?后来他遇到恶劣天气被困,食物、饮水、燃料告急、通讯电池耗尽,飞机一次次试图把他捞回来,或者给他空投点补给什么的,有的是天气恶劣,有的是找不到他,都没有成功。在被困八天之后,他终于成功获救。

  然而有的报纸媒体对此不高兴了,它们认为这些救援花费的是纳税人的血汗钱,是用纳税人的税款去救援。有道理啊。

  而Pen Hadow方面则立即声明,自己已经支付了这次救援行动的所有费用。酷。

  我翻译一些大意,详细说说Pen Hadow此人有多牛(原文见下)。

  根据资料,进行一次无支援的Solo北极穿越,也就是说所有食物、引水、燃料、用品、电池等等都自己背着和用雪橇拖着,一般来说需要跋涉60-70天。出发时装在雪橇上的单人全部物资重量高达150公斤,每天滑雪、拖雪橇行进8-12小时,每两个星期休息一天。同时,在北极冰川上跋涉的时候,由于强风、潮汐、洋流的影响,脚下的冰川还会时时漂移,并在漂移冰川之间形成裂缝,还会由于冰川挤压形成高达30英尺(10米左右)的冰脊。真够恐怖的。

  原文链接:https://www.thepoles.com/story/st...n40CApr262003.shtml

  图片:Pen Hadow1.jpg,Pen Hadow2.jpg.

  文章提供:火锅子

  5/28/2003

  **********

  关于北极成功救援Pen Hadow的原文链接:

  https://www.thepoles.com/story/Pi...eiceMay272003.shtml

  Pilots snatch Pen off the ice

  15:45 p.m. EDT May 27, 2003

  Pen is now in Eureka taking a shower.

  At last, 8 days after being stranded at the North Pole in bad weather, Pen has returned back home from his polar quest.

  -"Rescue", trumpeted the media; "the ‘human icebreaker’ is using up tax payers' money for rescue pick up!" This is all crap, diminishing Pen and a bunch of other adventurers.

  Even ExplorersWeb were interviewed by International TV for comments. We clearly stated the facts. Once aired, the facts were conveniently cut out. So, here they are again:

  Pen is not "the human ice breaker". The submerging suit was first pioneered by the professional diver/polar champ Borge Ousland a few years ago. It has since been used by both men and women, swimming to the pole. Pen's great feat is instead that he is the first, solo, unsupported to the pole from Canada - "the classic route".

  Pen was not rescued. A prolonged pick up is common in the Arctic, due to cloudy conditions at the end of May. Pen paid for the pick up all by himself. Pen just broke another human frontier at the North Pole this year. Let's not soil it for him. The champ has had a tough journey.

  Image courtesy of the Polar Travel Company

  **********

  另一篇原文:

  https://www.thepoles.com/story/st...n40CApr262003.shtml

  Swimming to the North Pole in -40C

  0-5:03 a.m. EDT Apr 9, 2003

  Though high altitude mountaineering might be the most dangerous "sport" around - skiing unsupported to the North Pole is probably the toughest!

  While climbers flock in masses at Everest BC, there are currently two lonely expeditions out on the ice heading unsupported for the North Pole. Only 26 people have ever done this trip without assistance compared to 1500 Everest summits. Pen Hadow (UK) is doing very well on a solo attempt from Canada, while no news have come out from the three person Russian team ( Karpienko, Larionienko and Bystrov) that started out from Siberia more than a month ago.

  Due to thinning ice today’s polar skiers encounter more open water, and in 2001 the Norwegian adventurer Borge Ousland for the first time brought a dry suit and tried to swim the open leads. In 2002 the ExplorersWeb team, Tom and Tina Sjogren picked up on Borges experience and swam several times almost every day during their 67 day expedition.

  Yesterday Pen Hadow put on his dry suit and swam his first lead. The psychological barrier of jumping into 3000 meter deep water at -40 C is tremendous, with killer whales and sharks in the deep and polar bears pacing the edges in search of seals. Pens move to go straight over the open water instead of trying to find a way around, have considerably raised his chances of reaching the pole.

  Images to the left from Tom and Tina’s unsupported NP trip in 2002. The leads were crossed by the means of swimming, paddling, jumping and also the use of sleds to build bridges. April 9, 2003

  Note: An unsupported expedition to the North Pole requires 60-70 days. Sled weight at starting point is 150 kg per person. Skiing and hauling 8-12 hours daily with a rest day every two weeks.

  The ice moves constantly due to wind, tidal and currents, creating open leads and up to 30 feet (10 m) high pressure ridges.

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