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把手点与动作
2003年5月2日08:19  中国户外资料网
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  (from ESPN SportsZone)

转自搜狐

  On an artificial wall, holds are usually man-made pieces (sometimes real rock) that are attached to the wall by bolts that go through them and into the wall. Holds are all different shapes and sizes. The configuration of holds on the wall determines the "route," or the path to the top that the climber must follow.

转自搜狐

  在人工岩场,把手点通常也是人工的岩块(有时候是真的石头),然后再用螺丝固定在岩墙上;岩块有不同的形状和大小,它们的形状和位置决定了攀爬的路线。

转自搜狐

  Different kinds of holds have different names. Some are specific descriptions related to the shape of the hold, such as a chickenhead (a round hold that sticks out from the wall) or a bone or a urinal (deep, scooping hold). But there are also broad universal descriptions for how a hold works and how it is used:

转自搜狐

  不同的把手点有不同的名字,有些是由形状命名,像鸡头(一个圆形的点在墙的外边)、骨头或尿壶(深桶状的点),但也有较广泛通用的定义是看点的用途及效用。

转自搜狐

  Some "moves" that climbers use to get from hold to hold also have names.

转自搜狐

  有些攀岩者从点到点间的动作也有名字。

转自搜狐

  Holds

转自搜狐

  Bucket: A big hold, or one that is in-cut, that you can really get your hand into or around.

转自搜狐

  大的把手点,或是大洞,你可以整把握住或放进去。

转自搜狐

  Crimper: A crimper is a small hold, just big enough for the fingertips, that you have to crimp your fingers to hold on to. A climb with lots of crimpers is "crimpy."

转自搜狐

  小点,只能够用指尖施力,必须把手指头弯起来,很多这类点的路线叫"crimpy"。

转自搜狐

  Downpull: A hold that can be used by pulling straight down. Usually very solid and straightforward.

转自搜狐

  可以用来垂直往下推的点,通常很牢固且直接的。

转自搜狐

  Finger pocket: A one- or two-finger pocket is a hold with a depression that you can only get that many fingers into.

转自搜狐

  一到二根手指头勉强可以放进的小凹洞。

转自搜狐

  Gaston: A move where one or both hands pull on a hold across the front of the body. Imagine it as trying to open closed elevator doors with one or both hands.

转自搜狐

  一个必需用一或两只手在身体前往两边横拉的点,就像要把开电梯门的动作。

转自搜狐

  Pinch: A hold that you squeeze the outsides of in order to hold on to it.

转自搜狐

  一个你得从外面捏紧才抓得住的点。

转自搜狐

  Sloper: Any hold that slopes downward so that you can"t lock onto it. Slopers are easy to slide or "grease" off of.

转自搜狐

  岩面向下倾斜的点,你无法很稳的固定在上面,很容易滑掉。

转自搜狐

  Sidepull: A hold that"s turned so it can only be used from the side. This kind of hold usually takes trickier body position.

转自搜狐

  只能用侧边的点,通常须要身体姿势的技巧。

转自搜狐

  Undercling: A hold that"s held from the bottom, pulling upward.

转自搜狐

  要从下侧向上拉的点。

转自搜狐

  Moves

转自搜狐

  Backstep: Using the outside edge of the foot (as opposed to the front or the ball of the foot)

转自搜狐

  用脚的外侧边缘(不是前面也不是脚的球形部位)。

转自搜狐

  Barndoor: The result of a climber getting out of balance, causing the body to swing out away from the wall like a barn door opening.

转自搜狐

  攀登者失去平衡的结果,导致身体摆开岩壁,像开门一样。

转自搜狐

  Crank: Powerfully pulling through a hold.

转自搜狐

  很用力的拉一个点。

转自搜狐

  Deadpoint: A dynamic move where a climber lunges for a hold and hits it just at the point where he/she is no longer moving up or down. For example, lunging for a faraway pocket, where the fingers need to sink directly in. In other words, there"s no chance of controlling the hold if the climber overshoots (can"t grab it on the way back down), or undershoots.

转自搜狐

  一个动态的动作,攀登者必须要跳到这个点,且刚好到这个最高点,不再上升(之后当然就往下降了)。例如,要跳到一个远的洞点,必须要直接插入才可抓住,换言之,假如冲过头或不够高,就没有机会抓住(就算是过头往下掉时也无法抓住)。

转自搜狐

  Dyno: A lunge for a faraway hold. The opposite of a controlled, "static" move. Sometimes also called a lunge.

转自搜狐

  动态,静态的相反词。

转自搜狐

  Flag: Where a leg is held out to one side or draped beneath the climber for balance.

转自搜狐

  一只脚放在另一只脚的后面或为求身体平衡而把脚垂在下面。

转自搜狐

  Heel hook: Putting the heel on a hold (often above the climber"s head) and rocking onto it.

转自搜狐

  把脚跟放在点上(通常超过攀登者的头),然后摇罢而上。

转自搜狐

  High step: When a climber"s foot is nearly as high as his/her hands, or sometimes as high or higher.

转自搜狐

  当攀登者把脚抬得跟手一样或更高的动作。

转自搜狐

  Lie back: Using a side pull by opposing the force of the hands and feet; i.e. the hands are pulling one way and the feet are pushing the other.

转自搜狐

  利用手和脚侧推的反向力,手和脚反方向用力。

转自搜狐

  Mantle: Where a climber pulls above a hold, or over a lip, then pushes down on what he/she is holding onto. An extremely committing move since it"s very difficult to reverse.

转自搜狐

  将身体拉高超过把手点,或是超过岩阶;然后同一把手点变成下推,必须要全力以付,因为很难退回来。

转自搜狐

  Match: Using one hold for both hands. You can also "match feet."

转自搜狐

  两只手抓同一个点,脚也可以这样做。

转自搜狐

  Smear: Using the sole of the shoe to generate friction where there is otherwise no hold.

转自搜狐

  没有其它点可踩,只能利用鞋底产生磨擦力。

转自搜狐

  Stem: When the feet are very wide apart, sometimes into a "splits" position.

转自搜狐

  两脚张得很开,有时候就是劈腿。

转自搜狐

  Elvis syndrome -- when an awkward position held for too long causes a climbers legs to shake uncontrollably.

转自搜狐

  不顺手的姿势保持太久,使得脚不自觉的发抖。

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